Boiled Knuckle of Veal

History

This is Eliza Acton's receipt for Boiled Knuckle of Veal, printed in her Modern Cookery for Private Families, first published in London by Longmans in 1845. Acton's book is remembered as a landmark of 19th-century English domestic cookery, noted for its precise, systematic instructions; it went through many editions but was later overtaken in popular fame by Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (first published 1861).

The recipe itself is straightforward. After the knuckle "has been trimmed and well washed," Acton directs the cook to put it into a vessel well suited to its size, because "if it be very large, so much water will be required that the veal will be deprived of its flavour"; the joint should be well covered and "very gently boiled until it is perfectly tender in every part, but not so much done as to separate from the bone." The scum is cleared "with scrupulous care when the simmering first commences," and a small portion of salt is added, which "if sparingly used, will not redden the meat, and will otherwise much improve it." She notes that "Parsley and butter is usually both poured over, and sent to table with a knuckle of veal, and boiled bacon also should accompany it." Because of "the sinewy nature of this joint, it requires more than the usual time of cooking, a quarter of an hour to the pound not being sufficient for it," and she gives the timing as "Veal 6 to 7 lbs.: 2 hours or more".

Beyond the book's own text, the historical record does not document who ate this dish, where it originated, or that it carried any particular social status. Claims of a Roman ancestry for boiling tough cuts, and of boiling as a class marker distinct from aristocratic roasting, are not supported by any source examined here and are not part of this history.

Ingredients

• 6 lbs knuckle of veal
• salt
• parsley
• butter
• boiled bacon
• water

Instructions

1. Trim and wash the veal knuckle thoroughly.
2. Place it in a vessel well suited to its size—not too large, or excess water will dilute the flavour.
3. Cover the joint well with water and bring to a very gentle boil.
4. When the water first comes to a simmer, clear off the scum with care.
5. Add a small portion of salt, used sparingly so it will not redden the meat.
6. Continue simmering very gently until the veal is perfectly tender throughout, but not so much done that it separates from the bone.
7. Pour parsley and butter over the veal.
8. Serve with boiled bacon accompanying.