Fillets of Mackerel Stewed in Wine

History

"Fillets of Mackerel stewed in Wine" is a receipt from Eliza Acton's Modern Cookery for Private Families, first published by Longmans in London in 1845. The book was a best-seller that ran through many editions across the Victorian period, though its sales were later overtaken by Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861).

Acton heads the receipt "FILLETS OF MACKEREL STEWED IN WINE. (Excellent.)" and gives it as a variant of the preceding receipt, "Mackerel stewed with Wine. (Very good.)". In her method the flesh is raised whole from the bones on either side of the fish and cut into pieces; a teaspoonful of flour is worked smooth with two ounces of butter and dissolved over the fire; spice (pounded mace and cayenne), a little salt, and the thinly pared rind of half a small lemon are added; the fillets are laid in and shaken over a gentle fire for four to five minutes, turned once. Port wine (two large wineglassesful), a tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, a teaspoonful of soy, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice are then poured in by small portions, and the fish is stewed very softly "until the thinner parts begin to break," lifted out, and served in its sauce as hot as possible; a teaspoonful of made mustard is stirred into the sauce first, and a garnish of fried sippets may be added at will. Acton adds that she can "recommend the dish to our readers as a very excellent one," and notes in an observation that "Trout may be dressed by this receipt."

Beyond what the book itself records, the historical record I could source does not document who ate this dish, where it originated, or that it carried any particular social or class status.

Ingredients

• 2 mackerel fillets
• 2 oz. butter
• 1 teaspoonful flour
• 1/2 lemon rind
• salt
• cayenne
• pounded mace
• 2 wineglassesful port wine
• 1 tablespoonful Harvey's sauce
• 1 teaspoonful soy
• 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice
• 1 teaspoonful made mustard
• fried sippets

Instructions

1. Mix flour with butter and dissolve over gentle heat.
2. When the mixture has simmered for a minute, throw in the spice, a little salt, and the thinly pared rind of lemon.
3. Lay in the fillets of fish and shake them over a gentle fire for four to five minutes, turning them once.
4. Pour in the port wine, Harvey's sauce, soy, and lemon-juice in small portions.
5. Stew the mackerel very softly until the thinner parts begin to break.
6. Lift the fillets out with care and dish them up.
7. Stir the made mustard into the sauce.
8. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve as hot as possible, with fried sippets as garnish if desired.