Chicken Breasts with Ham and Orange

History

This recipe is printed as "Pechugas de gallina" in La Mejor Cocinera, Recetas de Cocina, an anonymous Spanish household cookbook issued by Editorial "Saturnino Calleja" in Madrid; the copy that can be firmly dated is the 1923 edition of 394 pages. The book's opening address, "A las señoras," dedicates it to the mistress of the household — "la primera cocinera de la casa debe ser la señora, cualquiera que sea su posición social" (the first cook of the house should be the lady, whatever her social position) — and emphasizes order, economy, and practicality, noting that its recipes come from various regions of Spain and that most of them are inexpensive. In other words, the book presents itself as general home cookery for any household, not the cuisine of a particular class. As set down in the book, the dish is made by opening out and skinning hen breasts, placing a round of jamón in the middle of each, tying each breast closed with thread, and cooking them in a pan with manteca de vaca, vino rancio, the juice of one orange, salt, cinnamon, and caldo de cocido (the broth of a Spanish cocido). Once cooked, the breasts are arranged on a serving dish, the sauce strained and poured over them, and the platter garnished with picatostes (fried bread). Beyond the recipe and the book that carries it, the sources consulted here do not document a specific inventor, region of origin, dating, or social significance for this particular dish.

Ingredients

• 2 whole chicken breasts
• 2 slices jamón (cured ham)
• 2 tablespoons manteca de vaca (beef lard)
• 1/2 cup vino rancio (aged rancid wine)
• 1 whole orange
• to taste salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/2 cup caldo de cocido (broth from a cocido stew)

Instructions

1. Butterfly each chicken breast and remove the skin. Place a thin round of jamón in the center of each breast. Tie each breast closed with kitchen twine to secure the filling.
2. Heat the manteca de vaca in a heavy pot or Dutch oven. Place the tied breasts in the pot and add the vino rancio, fresh orange juice, salt, cinnamon, and caldo de cocido. Braise gently until the chicken is cooked through.
3. Transfer the cooked breasts to a serving platter. Strain the cooking sauce and pour it over the breasts. Garnish the platter with picatostes (toasted bread cubes).