Sanbūsaj (Triangular Fried Meat Pastries — Samosa Ancestor)

History

Al-Baghdadi's sanbūsaj (سنبوسج) is a small stuffed triangle: minced meat seasoned as for maqlūba is wrapped in thin bread cut into strips, folded into a triangle, sealed with a little dough, and fried in shīraj (sesame oil). He also gives a sweet "mukallal" version stuffed with pounded sugar and almonds kneaded with rosewater — all period-correct 13th-century ingredients, with no New-World foods. The dish is far older than this 1226 witness: its name descends from the Middle Persian sanbosag, "triangular pastry," borrowed into Arabic as sanbusak, sanbusaq or sanbusaj. The earliest known literary mention is a verse praising the sanbusaj by the Abbasid poet Isḥāq al-Mawṣilī (d. 850), and the Persian historian Bayhaqī (995–1077) records it as sambosa in his chronicle of the Ghaznavid court. Recipes recur across 10th–13th-century Arabic cookbooks, al-Baghdadi's among them. The pastry is generally held to be the ancestor of the samosa family: carried by Middle Eastern and Central Asian cooks into the Delhi Sultanate's kitchens, it entered Indian cuisine by around 1300, when Amīr Khusrau noted nobles relishing "the samosa prepared from meat, ghee, onion, and so on." Its descendants now span samsa, sambusa, singara and the Portuguese chamuça.

Ingredients

• pounded meat filling
• thin bread/pastry sheets
• dough
• sesame oil
• sugar
• almonds
• rosewater
• soap-halva
• syrup
• musk and camphor

Instructions

1. Prepare the meat filling as in the maqlūba recipe above.
2. Cut the thin bread (khubz raqīq) into strips, stuff with the meat, and fold into triangles.
3. Seal the seams with a little dough.
4. Fry in sesame oil (shīraj) and serve.
5. For the sweet 'mukallal' variant, stuff instead with finely pounded sugar and almonds kneaded with rosewater, or with soap-halva (ḥalwā ṣābūniyya), and fry.
6. Optionally dip the sweet pastries in syrup (jullāb), then coat in finely pounded sugar perfumed with musk and camphor.