A Cassereet, an East India Dish
Origin: Calcutta, India
Source: Anonymous, 1846
History
The dish's soul lies in the ancient South Indian tradition of tempering spices in oil to create a concentrated flavor base. Long before the British arrival, regional curries utilized a sophisticated balance of turmeric, coriander, cumin, and black pepper, tailored to the local produce and climate of the Deccan Plateau and the Malabar Coast.
This continuous tradition underwent a merger event during the 18th and 19th centuries as the British East India Company sought to standardize these diverse flavors for export. The result was the creation of 'curry powder'—a dehydrated, pre-mixed spice blend. 'Cassereet' is the term the book uses for such an imported preparation, stirred into gravy rather than built from whole spices — a shortcut that let colonial administrators and their households approximate the tastes of Indian stews using familiar European techniques like braising lamb chops in a stewpan. The derivation of the word itself is not documented.
By the mid-19th century, these 'East India' dishes were staples in the cosmopolitan kitchens of the British Empire, crossing cultural and religious lines. The Jewish Manual (1846) — the first Jewish cookbook in English, published anonymously "by a Lady" and generally attributed to Lady Judith Cohen Montefiore, though the attribution rests on circumstantial evidence rather than proof — documents this preparation as a practical application of the imported spice blend, served with rice to mirror the traditional Indian accompaniment, though the technique of skimming fat and using 'gravy' reflects a distinctly Victorian approach to the meal.
Ingredients
- 2 pounds lamb chops
- water or gravy
- pepper and salt
- 2 tablespoons cassereet
- rice
Instructions
- Place the lamb chops in a stewpan and cover with water or gravy. Season with pepper and salt only. When the chops are half done, carefully skim off the fat. Stir two tablespoons of cassereet into the gravy—do not thicken it. Continue stewing gently until the chops are cooked through. Serve with rice.